William Nethersole Mourning Ring, c.1834

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There’s a refinement in style during the 1830s-50s which took the established Gothic Revival and manipulated into pre-existing styles or pushed forward in creating a new aesthetic based upon the heavy floral embellishments and black enamel of the Gothic Revival period. Much of this was in streamlining the designs or putting them into looser, more streamlined designs.

This ring fits into the category of being directly in the middle of a conflict in style. Firstly, we have the rectangular hair memento; a shape and a style that has been discussed at Art of Mourning as being the most popular and consistent style of the first quarter of the 19th century. It is in the shoulders of this ring that we see the influences of the Gothic Revival period creeping in; there’s a bold method to the floral design that makes the ring look heavy for its open-shoulder style, but it adapts it well.

Next we have the black enamel itself; the enamel and the bezel have a semi-circular motif, reminiscent of a flower and, unlike contemporary and earlier pieces, no stones or gems surrounding the hair memento. The bold, Gothic Revival style claims what was once a streamlined design and makes it seem thick.

Country: England
Year: August 1834
Dedication: William Nethersole (age 33)

Further Reading
> Stages of Mourning in Early 19th Century Rings
> Gothic Revival in Culture and Jewellery: Part 1, c.1740-c.1850
> Gothic Revival in Culture and Jewellery: Part 2, c.1850-c.1900
> Gothic Revival in Culture and Jewellery: Part 3, Breaking Perceptions

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