Discovering a 19th Century Swivel Ring

Originally, this ring had a bloodstone intaglio, which has since been replaced, but this swivel ring is a refined piece for a gentleman.

Swivel rings, or rings with a rotating bezel, are wonderful examples of how 19th century Western culture conveyed itself. This is due to the nature of the ring; a piece of jewellery that conceals a passionate sentiment for a loved one, which restricts the external love and passion and hides it internally. One one side, the hairwork can be displayed proudly; revealing the intentions of the wearer and their values, on the other side, a statement on fashion and simplicity reveals nothing more than aesthetic values.

With this particular piece, the onyx was changed out from a bloodstone intaglio with the wearer’s family crest inscribed. When one looks at a piece that doesn’t denote any outward sentiment for mourning or love, then it’s often wise to look at the style and why it would have been worn. Much of this is supposition, but a good analysis can divulge the true nature of the jewel.

Bloodstone represents courage and presence of mind (but also absence), hence when combined with the intaglio, representing the family, the ring connects itself to fortitude and fidelity to the family. The family is strong and missed when absent. Combine this with the hairwork and one can suggest that the hair is a token from the family, or at least worn to remember a specific loved one within this family unit.

Regardless, the style reflects the 1870-90 period with its bold, empire styling and lack of the excessive Rococo Revival flourishes that decorated the larger, heavier styles of the 1860s.

Further Reading

Elegant 19th Century Envelope Ring

Hinged Ring and Further Examples

Space Oddity; Understanding a Hinged / Locket Sentimental Ring with Hair

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