The Late 19th Century and Mourning Buckle Rings
The late 19th century created a period of mourning fashion that was reaching a peak and hard decline. Over the period from 1860s-80s, the industry was fuelled by the high mortality rates from the Civil War in the US and in the UK, there was Queen Victoria’s perpetual mourning for Albert post 1861, which is a hard paradigm shift from a populace who once looked to constantly changing royal fashion for popular adoption.
Pieces like this were quite typical from the 1880s on, particularly so in the 1890s and virtually disappearing by the start of the 20th century.
Hair bands, with the central groove, had the hair glued woven and glued into the ring, making them more wearable than what may seem.
Finding pieces like this today is quite easy, however it isn’t uncommon to find many altered and re-purposed variations. Pieces are often taken apart over time, with the hair removed and enamel or other materials filling in the groove. This has the eternity motif in the buckle and the pearl for a tear, creating quite a loving sentiment, but the hair has since been removed and replaced with black enamel.
Though many of these may have been changed over time, they are still beautiful as well as the top areas on the bands, where a sentimental motif may be placed.