1900 Chester Hairwork Band

As we look to the end of the 19^th century in rings, particularly hairwork bands, it’s noticeable to see the decline in quality, due to the high levels of production and the changing styles that began to supersede the need for rings such as these to be worn for social convention.

The fashion of mourning and sentimentality was being challenged, just as it had during the Neoclassical era, with new perspectives on lifestyle and art. A push towards more organic and natural styles, the influx of silver use in jewellery and the changing perspectives of the role of the female in the family created a rebellion against a mainstream sentimental style that had lasted longer than many of the fashions of the previous century. Much of this was due to the static monarchy; Victoria compared with a ruler such as George IV couldn’t have been further apart. George nurtured excess and fashion, whereas Victoria’s post-mourning period reflected a static style and family value that had its basis in security and morality.

While good for mourning and sentimental jewellery, it inevitably began to lose its grip by the turning of the 20^th century and Victoria’s death 1901. Hairwork bands for their memorial and sentimental values were considered a reflection upon the previous generation, that isn’t to say that they disappeared overnight, but there were new and more personal ways to display love for another. A new aesthetic took control and affectation of jewellery adornment and its combination with fashion overtook the sentiment of giving.

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