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Rings 13.10.2014
Mary Dean Obt 27 Augt 1794 AEt.73. eye portrait ring mourning

An Eye Miniature Mourning Ring, Mary Dean Obt 27 Augt 1794 AEt.73.

Eye portraits are rare and highly sought after, but there is variation between them. In the portrait shown, the setting…

Rings 06.10.2014
This gold ring has an oval bezel that opens to form a concealed locket, containing an enamelled portrait of Charles I (reigned 1625-49). The hinged lid is set with a diamond on an enamelled ground.  Commemorative jewellery depicting royalty was usually produced after the monarch's death, but was occasionally available during their lifetime, to be worn as a demonstration of loyalty. Commemorative jewellery, in the form of rings, lockets or hair clasps, was produced in great numbers after Charles' execution on 30 January 1649. Many examples have hinged lids: supporters of the Royalist cause, who wished to keep their allegiance secret, probably wore these during the Commonwealth under the rule of Oliver Cromwell. The Restoration of the monarchy in 1660 again produced great numbers of commemorative jewellery, made for those who claimed to have been Royalist supporters all along. Some rings commemorating Charles I were presented during his lifetime by his Queen, Henrietta Maria (1609-69), to Royalist supporters in appreciation of their continuing loyalty and financial backing, to be redeemed when the Civil War had ended.  Much commemorative jewellery is decorated with black enamel in the same fashion as mourning jewellery. The shoulders of this ring have a scroll pattern reserved in gold on a ground of black enamel, the diamond is bordered with black enamel, and the border of the bezel is decorated with a black and white enamelled pattern.  C. Oman, British rings 800-1914 (London, Batsford, 1974)

Memorial Ring Commemorating Charles I

Secrecy and devotion are intrinsically linked. Without the elements of love and fidelity that connect people, there is no honesty…

Rings 22.09.2014
Large navette shaped 15K gold ring, with 3-D ivory and gold mausoleum with a rounded dome and classical columns,  enclosing an eternal flame, and bearing the inscription, “zum andenken gewidmet”,  (“dedicated to the memory of”) upon an altar decorated with gold wires and hair.  Strands of hair are also laid along the sides of the mausoleum, as well as on some of the steps.  Around the bezel is cobalt blue enamel with gold letters giving the birth and death dates of the individual in German:  Gebohren den 22 Juli 1714 Gestorben den 1 Oct. 1783 (Born the 22 of July 1714, died the 1 of Oct. 1783). Part of the setting has been pried up, and the bezel and glass covering (replaced from old celluloid cover), can be easily lifted out.  The shank is plain, and tapers to a narrow band. I'm guessing it's English made for a German client.

German Mourning and Sentimental Jewellery

Understanding the way a culture operates is seen within the designs and art of a jewel. Until investment in the…

Memories 15.09.2014
Brooch in gold and enamel in the form of an enamelled ER VII monogram with a red and green enamelled crown. The crown and the letter R are set with diamonds.

Decline of Mourning

The decline and disappearance of the mourning industry does not have one simple answer. It is a mix of cultural…

Textiles 08.09.2014
Object Type  Painted panels depicting family members with the symbols of birth, death and marriage were a common way of commemorating significant rites of passage. They acted as reminders to the living of their own mortality and were often handed down through later generations as heirlooms. The folding panels in this example emphasise the intimate nature of the object.  Subjects Depicted  The panels include several references to the passing of time and the fragility of life, as well as the events of marriage and death. On the left exterior panel are figures representing youth and age. On the right are two inscriptions, each incorporating a visual pun or 'rebus', in which a picture or figure represents a name, word or phrase. Here Christ is represented by a painted figure and the clock dial completes the inscription 'We Must' by representing the words 'Die All'.  Dress  Henry and Dorothy Holme are dressed in the style of the well-to-do merchant class rather than the height of fashion. While their garments are quite plain they could clearly afford the luxury of lace accessories. Henry's ruff and cuffs are trimmed with fine imported needle lace. His wife's are trimmed with bobbin lace of a typically English pattern. Broad-brimmed beaver hats, such as Dorothy wears, were popular with country gentlewomen and women of the merchant class.  Costume provides a clue to the sex of the children in this portrait. Boys up to the age of about 7 were dressed like little girls, wearing skirts known as petticoats. To differentiate them from girls the bodice part of their costume took the form of a man's doublet. Little girls typically wore an embroidered cap, or 'coif', and an apron with a bib. Long narrow strips of fabric known as leading strings are attached to both the children's sleeves. These were used to guide children as they learned to walk.

Children in Mourning

A child in mourning is the ultimate symbol of family grief. The child is what carries forward a memory and…

Rings 01.09.2014
Drawing in pencil and watercolour on card

19th Century Jewellery Designs and Primary Sources

In the early modern era of jewellery design and manufacture, there is the need to create standardisation for artists to…

Memories 30.08.2014
Michelle Watson FAÇADE

Michelle Watson’s FAÇADE Art Exhibit

When the chance to see artistic talent adapt classical styles with a direct influence on mourning and treat it with…

Miniatures 18.08.2014
French Mourning Miniature and mother on February 22nd, 1787, age 11 years, 4 months and 22 days.”

A French Mourning Pendant in 1787 For A Child

One of the most difficult concepts to gasp when identifying and appreciating mourning jewels is trying to separate the emotional…

Lockets 11.08.2014
French St Esprit Necklace

French Saint Esprit Dove Necklace

During the Rococo period of the 18th century, much of the most ornate and elaborate jewellery was created. Rococo as a…

Brooches 04.08.2014
"Recuerd" Brooch with Turquoise, Doves and Forget-Me-Nots

A ‘Recuerdo’ Brooch and Mourning/Sentimental Value

‘REGARD’ is a term used for both mourning and sentimental jewels; a term which crossed cultures and was embraced for…

Lockets 28.07.2014
Silver Georgian Heart 18th Century Mourning Sentimental Jewel

A Silver Georgian Heart Pendant

Silver is a metal which has seen its appreciation rise and fall through the early modern era, but it is…

Brooches 21.07.2014
Come Ye Blessed Mourning Ribbon Slide Stuart Crystal Skeleton Cherub

‘Come Ye Blessed’ – A Memento Mori Ribbon Slide and Memento Mori Evolution

Memento mori and its adaptation into jewellery and accessories is a unique look into how human behaviour and identity. Throughout…

Rings 14.07.2014
Mourning Ring for "Lois Boyes 24 July 1820, age 47"

Connecting And Collecting In An 1820 Ring

Collecting is an art in itself. Discovering facts about a jewel helps one find out more about the life of…

Lockets 30.06.2014
Bereft of All, 1798 Mourning Pendant

“Bereft Of All” – The Love of Three in One Pendant, c.1798

Genealogy is part of the rich history of mourning jewels, with the more we know about them bringing us closer…

Lockets 23.06.2014
Victorian Locket Pendant Silver Enamel Monogram

Onyx and Silver ‘IMO’ Victorian Hairwork Pendant

The second half of the 19th century saw the combination of mainstream fashion and mourning fashion. High mortality rates and…

Art 16.06.2014
French Hair Mourning Art from the 19th Century

French Hair Art & The Industry of Mourning

“Hair is at once the most delicate and lasting of our materials and survives us like love. It is so…

Lockets 09.06.2014
American Daguerreotype Locket Jewel

American Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry From the 19th Century

Perspectives and perceptions of sentimentality and mourning in popular thought and culture are cemented within the second half of the…

Brooches 02.06.2014
Miers Sentimental Shade Profile Silhouette Brooch

Silhouettes & Shades From Miers & Field

Capturing the image of a loved one affordably and quickly is a relatively modern invention. Having the technology to produce…

Accessories 26.05.2014
Mourning Stickpin With Coffin and Male, c.1780

A Coffin & A Male In A Stickpin. 18th Century

Creating the connection between mortality and fashion in historical jewels often leads to the literal interpretation. While many historical jewels…

Miniatures 19.05.2014
rest in peace 18th century urn mourning pendant

“Rest In Peace” – An 18th Century Mourning Pendant

If ever a jewel was a contradiction in its title, it’s this mourning pendant. “Rest In Peace” is written modestly…

Brooches 08.05.2014
Silesian iron wire-work brooch, c.1825

Berlin Ironwork Jewellery

Giving something precious for an important cause is considered one of the most respectful ways to show honour and fidelity…

Rings 28.04.2014
Onyx ring with willow and urn

The Urn, Willow and Onyx in the 18th Century

The urn and willow captured the imagination of the 18th century like no other mourning symbols. Their prominence of design…

Lockets 21.04.2014
Harriet Whitbread Pendant

Harriot Whitbread Witch’s Heart Pendant, Easter 1764

Harriot Whitbread, née Hayton, was the wife of English brewer and Member of Parliament Samuel Whitbread (1720-1796). She was born…

Brooches 14.04.2014
Rosamund Chapman Classical Mourning Ring 1768 / Age 59

Castles, Rivers, Boats and Classical Discovery in Jewellery

Identity is connected to history. Through the values, art and concepts of previous cultures, our identity is legitimised when we…

Brooches 07.04.2014
REGARD pin with turquoise

The Georgian “REGARD” Brooch

Jewellers and goldsmiths who had a close proximity to the crown benefitted from the attention and fame that their patronage…

Lockets 31.03.2014
Skeleton Charles I ring

Charles I in Mourning Jewellery History

Death is about identity. Having a memory of someone is the crucial element of their continuing existence through a network…

Rings 27.03.2014
Green Enamel Mourning Ring 1803

1803 Green Enamel Mourning Ring: Part 2

In the first part of this article, the elements that created a green enamel mourning ring have been discovered. The…

Rings 24.03.2014
Green Enamel Mourning Ring 1803

1803 Green Enamel Mourning Ring: Part 1

Enamel is the primary identifier for mourning and sentimental jewels, with colour being the most iconic and simplistic way to…

Collecting 17.03.2014
101

Mourning Jewels at Fellows Auctions

Art of Mourning is a celebration of mourning and sentimental jewellery. A resource created to dispel much of the mystique…

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Rings 10.03.2014
French Neoclasscal Sepia Mourning Ring

French Neoclassical Sepia/Hair Mourning Ring

1788; the colonisation of Australia, South Carolina ratifies the United States constitution to become the seventh state, the first edition…

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