Rings 17.09.2017
Mourning ring for sr, Oswald Mosley FE:1757 AE:52 with white enamel and amethyst.

A Mourning Ring for Oswald Mosley, 1757

A late Rococo, fleur-de-lis ring with a purple foil/paste set bezel and white enamel band featuring the name of Oswald…

Rings 03.01.2017

Princess Amelia Mourning Ring, 1810

Fifty of these rings were ordered from Rundell & Bridge [and Rundell] at 58 shillings each. This ring was acquired by…

Rings 06.08.2015
Silver gilt ring, the applied bezel with a heart between two death's heads. The hoop engraved with a worm and inscribed in black letter + iohes godefroy

The Earliest Mourning Ring

Discovering a beginning is the true way to understand the very essence of a concept. Mourning, at its core, is about…

Rings 29.07.2015
Micromosaic mourning ring, c.1800, The Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection on loan to the Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Cameo & Micromosaic Influences in Mourning Jewels

Culturally, the values of Europe differ across small geographic regions. Values in religion, politics, and language all have an impact on the styles of…

Rings 02.03.2015
Memorial ring in gold and black enamel, the bezel containing a microphotograph, reversed, of the Prince Consort in 1861, which is attributed to J.J.E. Mayall. The cypher linking the initials 'V' and 'A' in white enamel is set into the shanks on either side of the bezel

Victoria’s Photographic Mourning Ring for Albert, 1861

Love doesn’t require historical importance, nor does it an emotion that requires a single catalyst to happen. It is shared…

Rings 14.11.2014
Large navette shaped 15K gold ring, with 3-D ivory and gold mausoleum with a rounded dome and classical columns,  enclosing an eternal flame, and bearing the inscription, “zum andenken gewidmet”,  (“dedicated to the memory of”) upon an altar decorated with gold wires and hair.  Strands of hair are also laid along the sides of the mausoleum, as well as on some of the steps.  Around the bezel is cobalt blue enamel with gold letters giving the birth and death dates of the individual in German:  Gebohren den 22 Juli 1714 Gestorben den 1 Oct. 1783 (Born the 22 of July 1714, died the 1 of Oct. 1783). Part of the setting has been pried up, and the bezel and glass covering (replaced from old celluloid cover), can be easily lifted out.  The shank is plain, and tapers to a narrow band. I'm guessing it's English made for a German client.

A Mourning Tour: German Mourning and Sentimental Jewellery

Understanding the way a culture operates is seen within the designs and art of a jewel. Until investment in the…

Rings 01.11.2014
Coronet "A souvenir (memory) of a daughter like no other" Crystal Ring

A Mourning Tour: “A souvenir (memory) of a daughter like no other” Coronet Crystal Ring

There is a delicate sentimentality in Stuart period jewels which reflect a burgeoning sense of love between two people. Attainable…

Rings 31.10.2014
Queen Caroline Of Ansbach Ring

A Mourning Tour: Queen Caroline Of Ansbach Mourning Ring

It’s often the mourning jewels for the monarchy which set the standard for style of their times. These jewels are…

Rings 13.10.2014
Mary Dean Obt 27 Augt 1794 AEt.73. eye portrait ring mourning

An Eye Miniature Mourning Ring, Mary Dean Obt 27 Augt 1794 AEt.73.

Eye portraits are rare and highly sought after, but there is variation between them. In the portrait shown, the setting…

Rings 06.10.2014
This gold ring has an oval bezel that opens to form a concealed locket, containing an enamelled portrait of Charles I (reigned 1625-49). The hinged lid is set with a diamond on an enamelled ground.  Commemorative jewellery depicting royalty was usually produced after the monarch's death, but was occasionally available during their lifetime, to be worn as a demonstration of loyalty. Commemorative jewellery, in the form of rings, lockets or hair clasps, was produced in great numbers after Charles' execution on 30 January 1649. Many examples have hinged lids: supporters of the Royalist cause, who wished to keep their allegiance secret, probably wore these during the Commonwealth under the rule of Oliver Cromwell. The Restoration of the monarchy in 1660 again produced great numbers of commemorative jewellery, made for those who claimed to have been Royalist supporters all along. Some rings commemorating Charles I were presented during his lifetime by his Queen, Henrietta Maria (1609-69), to Royalist supporters in appreciation of their continuing loyalty and financial backing, to be redeemed when the Civil War had ended.  Much commemorative jewellery is decorated with black enamel in the same fashion as mourning jewellery. The shoulders of this ring have a scroll pattern reserved in gold on a ground of black enamel, the diamond is bordered with black enamel, and the border of the bezel is decorated with a black and white enamelled pattern.  C. Oman, British rings 800-1914 (London, Batsford, 1974)

Memorial Ring Commemorating Charles I

Secrecy and devotion are intrinsically linked. Without the elements of love and fidelity that connect people, there is no honesty…

Rings 22.09.2014
Large navette shaped 15K gold ring, with 3-D ivory and gold mausoleum with a rounded dome and classical columns,  enclosing an eternal flame, and bearing the inscription, “zum andenken gewidmet”,  (“dedicated to the memory of”) upon an altar decorated with gold wires and hair.  Strands of hair are also laid along the sides of the mausoleum, as well as on some of the steps.  Around the bezel is cobalt blue enamel with gold letters giving the birth and death dates of the individual in German:  Gebohren den 22 Juli 1714 Gestorben den 1 Oct. 1783 (Born the 22 of July 1714, died the 1 of Oct. 1783). Part of the setting has been pried up, and the bezel and glass covering (replaced from old celluloid cover), can be easily lifted out.  The shank is plain, and tapers to a narrow band. I'm guessing it's English made for a German client.

German Mourning and Sentimental Jewellery

Understanding the way a culture operates is seen within the designs and art of a jewel. Until investment in the…

Rings 10.02.2014
Mother of pearl, urn, three dimensional hair mourning ring 1779

1779 Pearlescent Urn Mourning Ring for Sarah

 An urn is a vessel that holds the remains of a loved one and this ring for Sarah Pettie encapsulates…

Rings 02.12.2013
Henry Smith White Enamel Georgian Mourning Ring

1774 White Enamel Mourning Ring

Henry Smith was four years old and five months when he died, leaving behind the memory of his short existence…

Rings 04.06.2012
Wheat Sheaf Ring, 18th Century

18th Century Wheat Sheaf Hairwork Ring

The wheat sheaf was one of the more common symbols used in late 18th century Neoclassical jewels, a symbol that…

Rings 01.06.2012
Cupid Neoclassical Ring

Pipe Playing Putti Mourning Ring,1787

Often, a mourning or sentimental jewel may require a level of thought and reflection that is so intrinsic towards its…

Rings 30.05.2012
Smith 18th Century Mourning Ring

Late 18th Century Oval Hairwork Mourning Ring

I find that the simplest of mourning jewels are the ones with the biggest tales to tell. There is much…

Rings 28.05.2012
Love Survives With Death Divides Ring

Love Survives With Death Divides in a Ring

Love, sentimentality and mourning became a personal thing during the late 18th century, something facilitated by the humanist Neoclassical movement….

Rings 18.05.2012
The Forget Me Not Blue Enamel Diamond Ring Navette

Diamond Navette Ring, Late 18th Century

The combination of blue enamel and diamonds aren’t a coincidence, there are intrinsic links in their symbolism and meaning that…

Rings 16.05.2012
Black Enamel Swivel Ring Georgian

Black Enamel Swivel Ring, 1798 “Sacred to Friendship”

With this remarkable ring, we have an adoption of old styles moving into the beginning of the 19th century. This…

Rings 14.05.2012
Blue Enamel 1796 Oval Pearl Ring

Blue Enamel 1796 Oval Pearl Ring

With neoclassical pieces, there is continuity to them and not just a broad period where different styles were mixed. Notice…

Rings 11.05.2012
1794 watercolour Ring

Hope, Heaven and Colour in This 1794 Ring

‘Affection weeps, heaven rejoices’ announces this watercolour on ivory ring and from the unique symbolism to the marvellously crafted mourning…

Rings 09.05.2012
1792 Blue Enamel Mourning Ring

Blue Enamel, Diamond Mourning Ring, 1797

If ever a jewel was designed for its materials, then this certainly fits the description. There is much to explain…

Rings 07.05.2012
Georgian Diamond Ring

Neoclassical Oval Diamond Mourning Ring

Mourning rings, as discussed in other articles, have a tremendous variation in quality and style. Much of this is to…

Rings 04.05.2012
Towards Heaven Sepia Ring

Towards Heaven 1792 Sepia Ring

Physical direction and movement in Neoclassical jewels of the late 18th and early 19th century which depict mourning and sentimental…

Rings 02.05.2012
1792 Sepia Mourning Ring

Two Lovers Captured in a Sepia Ring From 1792

The transference into the Neoclassical period of the 18th century exemplified the humanist movement in such a way that, even…

Rings 30.04.2012
Eliz Legrew Ob 4th July 1791 AE 34 / Weep Not Ring

Eliz Legrew Ob 4th July 1791 AE 34 / Sepia Male Mourning Ring

The male in mourning rings of the late 18th century and the Neoclassical period is a rare and important symbol,…

Rings 27.04.2012
Georgian Diamond Urn Ring fede

18th Century Diamond Fede Ring

There are a confluence of techniques and symbols that involve this ring, elements that need to be understood in order…

Rings 25.04.2012
Georgian Diamond Urn Ring

Amazing Georgian Diamond Urn Ring

There are many elements to this ring that put it in a specific spot in time. Let’s take a moment…

Rings 23.04.2012
Irish Langdale Ring Pair

Irish Sister Rings for Thomas Langdale, 1790

These two rings originally came from two sisters in Ireland in 1790. Both are identical, but suffer from damage in…

Rings 18.04.2012
1788 watercolour Ring

1788 Watercolour on Ivory Ring

Much has been written about sepia on Art of Mourning, but there was another (and even as popular) style of…