Lockets 30.05.2016
Woven hair pendant, early 19th century

Hair Buckle / Garter Pendant

The simplicity and sentimentality of hairwork cannot be understated. It is a material that is intrinsic to only one individual…

Lockets 24.04.2016
1821_locket_miniature01

Neoclassical Mourning Locket & Royalty, 1821

Having privilege in wealth is not required for mourning jewels, but it certainly helps. The range of quality in bespoke…

Memories 06.07.2015
A gold mourning brooch with black and white enamel frame set with circular miniature of Queen Victoria wearing the riband of the Order of the Garter

Mourning Fashion & Jewels During Victoria

Victoria’s reign from the 20th of June, 1837 to the 22nd of January, 1901 was the height and decline of the…

Lockets 28.10.2014
Charles II locket

A Mourning Tour: Charles II Locket

Memorial jewels that commemorate an event or a specific cultural moment in time have existed since antiquity and continue to…

Rings 06.10.2014
This gold ring has an oval bezel that opens to form a concealed locket, containing an enamelled portrait of Charles I (reigned 1625-49). The hinged lid is set with a diamond on an enamelled ground.  Commemorative jewellery depicting royalty was usually produced after the monarch's death, but was occasionally available during their lifetime, to be worn as a demonstration of loyalty. Commemorative jewellery, in the form of rings, lockets or hair clasps, was produced in great numbers after Charles' execution on 30 January 1649. Many examples have hinged lids: supporters of the Royalist cause, who wished to keep their allegiance secret, probably wore these during the Commonwealth under the rule of Oliver Cromwell. The Restoration of the monarchy in 1660 again produced great numbers of commemorative jewellery, made for those who claimed to have been Royalist supporters all along. Some rings commemorating Charles I were presented during his lifetime by his Queen, Henrietta Maria (1609-69), to Royalist supporters in appreciation of their continuing loyalty and financial backing, to be redeemed when the Civil War had ended.  Much commemorative jewellery is decorated with black enamel in the same fashion as mourning jewellery. The shoulders of this ring have a scroll pattern reserved in gold on a ground of black enamel, the diamond is bordered with black enamel, and the border of the bezel is decorated with a black and white enamelled pattern.  C. Oman, British rings 800-1914 (London, Batsford, 1974)

Memorial Ring Commemorating Charles I

Secrecy and devotion are intrinsically linked. Without the elements of love and fidelity that connect people, there is no honesty…

Lockets 23.06.2014
Victorian Locket Pendant Silver Enamel Monogram

Onyx and Silver ‘IMO’ Victorian Hairwork Pendant

The second half of the 19th century saw the combination of mainstream fashion and mourning fashion. High mortality rates and…

Lockets 30.09.2013
Front of locket: diamond, starburst

William Henry Smith Mourning Locket

Historical jewels are often marked by a certain quality that comes from having a notorious figure being memorialised. Be it…

Lockets 05.08.2013
Ampersand Locket

Ampersand Locket

Love is the intrinsic connection between two people and it is the purpose of a jewel to show this connection…

Lockets 13.05.2013
Charles II locket

Charles II Locket

Memorial jewels that commemorate an event or a specific cultural moment in time have existed since antiquity and continue to…

Lockets 01.05.2013
Georgian Heart REGARD Pendant 18th Century

Georgian Heart REGARD Locket

Every jewel is a remarkable monument to its time, its fashion, its very personality. Sentimental jewels are the embodiment of…

Rings 12.04.2013
18th Century French Ring

French Sentimentality Captured in an 18th Century Ring

“For You All Alone” (“Pour Vous Tout Seule”) is a sentiment that equates not only to the message of love…

Rings 13.03.2013
Agate Swivel Ring

A Very Sentimental Locket Swivel Ring, 19th Century

Even the simplest of designs from the early 19th century show a multitude of burgeoning ideas and new perceptions about…

Lockets 04.03.2013
Edwardian Heart-Shaped Locket

Post-Victorian Lockets and Pendants

The decline of the mourning industry was not exclusively ‘mourning’ related, but an actual change in fashion and social taste….

Lockets 01.03.2013
In Memory Of Locket Victorian

‘In Memory Of’ – A Timeless Dedication For A Memorial Locket

‘In Memory Of’. Very few sentiments in mourning jewellery resonate so strongly over such a long period of time and…

Lockets 27.02.2013
1870 Jet Mourning Pendant

Jet and Hairwork Mourning Pendant, 1870

As a popular material for the purposes of fashion, jet was held in high regard during the 1860s-1890s. Why this…

Lockets 25.02.2013
Jet Pearl Locket

Late Victorian Pearl Cross/Sheaf Locket

Vulcanite, Jet and the materials to represent the same styles are many of the most misinterpreted in mourning and sentimental…

Lockets 22.02.2013
Swiss Hairwork Locket

Swiss Hairwork Locket, Mid 19th Century

The Swiss and German hairworking industries produced remarkable three dimensional hairwork and memorial art, as the above example shows. From…

Lockets 20.02.2013
Locket Miniature Black Enamel

Miniatures, Lockets and The Rise of Photography

Since the 1840s, photography had changed the landscape of sentimental jewels. Many factors contributed to this, involving improvements in technology…

Lockets 18.02.2013
Turquoise Forget-Me-Not Locket with Hairwork

Turquoise Forget-Me-Not Locket with Hairwork

Many facets make this piece truly wonderful for its time. The mid to late 19th century had embraced the meaning…

Lockets 15.02.2013
1849 Locket

“My Olive Branches” Twisted Hairwork Locket, 1849

Post 1859, many of the jewels that are commonly found in antique stores and fairs had their origin. This is…

Lockets 25.01.2013
Georgian Urn Pendant

Three-Dimensional Urn Locket, Garnets, Pearls and Ribbon!

The intricacy of design that led to unique and unusual jewellery designs is often at the inception of a new…

Lockets 04.01.2013
Child Miniature Locket

A Child Miniature Portrait Locket Raises Questions…

Miniature portraits and those that are installed in jewels have different meanings in their construction. On one, the miniature needs…

Lockets 02.01.2013
Late Georgian Heart

Late Georgian Heart Pendant With Hairwork

The heart, as a motif in jewellery symbolism, is one of the most potent symbols of love represented as a…

Lockets 24.12.2012
Georgian Heart Emerald Flower Pendant 18th Century

Embellished Georgian Heart Love Pendant

Over the course of the following articles: > An Eternity Knot in a Crystal Heart Pendant > Mourning Crystal “Georgian” Heart > 18th…

Lockets 21.12.2012
Black Enamel French Mourning Locket

Rien Sans Amitie, Cabochon Garnet French Mourning Locket

By the time this piece became popular in fashionable styles, the ‘magical’ property of gems had started to permeate through…

Lockets 17.12.2012
Georgian Heart Crystal Pendant 18th Century Ribbon Bow White Enamel

Merit Claims Esteem/Bow Heart Locket, 18th Century

Before we take a look at this wonderful ‘Georgian Heart’ pendant, it’s valuable to read through the following articles: > An…

Lockets 14.12.2012
Georgian Heart Crystal Pendant 18th Century Ribbon Bow

Hairwork Bow/Ribbon Pendant

By the 1780s, many of the shapes in memorial and sentimental jewels that were common remained the popular standard. From…

Lockets 12.12.2012
Georgian Heart Crystal Pendant 18th Century Ribbon French

French Ribbon Pendant, 18th Century

Here, the ribbon motif is used in grand style to accommodate the heart shape within, however, the heart is missing…

Lockets 10.12.2012
white enamel ribon heart pendant

18th Century Ribbon Motif Pendant

The DNA of this wonderful “Georgian Heart” pendant shares many characteristics with this particular ‘REGARD’ necklace, however, it is quite…

Lockets 07.12.2012
Georgian Heart Crystal Pendant 18th Century

An Eternity Knot in a Crystal Heart Pendant

Romantic love from the 15th century depicted the heart motif, in terms of ‘love’ being a symbol of personal affection,…